$7.00 – $450.00
“Sweet” Castoreum, or “Raspberry Castoreum”. It is made from the uncured and still liquid secretion found in the fresh sacs and has a very different profile than traditional Castoreum.
“Sweet” Castoreum, or “Raspberry Castoreum” as I like to call it, is a 10% perfume tincture prepared from the uncured, liquid secretion found in the fresh Castor sacs and has a very different aromatic profile than traditional Castoreum.
Castoreum is known for its musky, warm, rich animalic scent that lends itself to the creation of leather perfume notes and accords. It is often used as a key component in masculine scents. In conventional perfumery, it is considered a base to middle note and a fixative in perfumes. Traditionally, Castoreum is prepared from Castor sacs that have been aged for 1 to 2 years. This curing period rounds out and mellows the fragrance of the material giving it softer and deeper notes of leather, Amber oil and Cade.
The glands, or “Castor Sacs”, in both male and female adults, produce a scent that is thought to be both a sexual attractant and a territorial marker. Castoreum lends a warm animalic note to perfumes and is considered safe to use in aromatic applications. It is designated GRAS, (Generally recognized as safe), by the FDA for use as a natural aroma and flavouring in the food and tobacco industries. You may recognize its presence in different types of snuff and smokeless tobacco products. Castoreum contains pheromone-like compounds, monoterpenes, phenols, ketones and other fragrant chemicals.
Sweet Castoreum-A new aromatic profile
Sweet Castoreum has unexpected notes of Cherry, Raspberry, tanned leather, Brandy and molasses. Its aroma is much brighter, fruitier, livelier and vivid than traditional Castoreum Though it still has many of the nuances we associate with cured Castor, it brings unique new notes and possibilities to the perfumer’s palette. When macerated in alcohol, the harshness dissipates and the uplifting fruity notes come forth and stay available through the maturation of the tincture. When used as a perfume ingredient. This compound has surprising fruity/floral and sweet “green” notes.
Sustainability and ethics
The Beaver has been trapped for millennia by indigenous peoples. It is valued for its waterproof pelt, as a food source, and for the odoriferous and medicinal properties of its sacs. The inner “hairs” of the Beaver pelt have tiny hooks on their tips, which make it ideal for felting and the production of hats and clothing.
In the past Beavers were over-hunted, nowadays the trapping of Beavers is regulated, and consideration is given to the Beaver’s impact on wetland ecology and the environment. Trappers work hand in hand with the government to control over-population which is thought to benefit both the Beaver and Human communities.
Though Castoreum is no longer popular as a medicine, it has been used as an antipyretic, ( to lower the temperature), an anodyne similar to Aspirin, ( it contains salysilic acid), an anti-inflammatory and ant-epileptic. It is said to increase blood pressure and cardiac output and has been used for the treatment of hysteria and dysmenorrhea.
The scent of Castoreum is persistent and enduring. It is a fragrance component that can greatly extend the life-span of a perfume. I have experimented with a few drops of Castoreum on blotting paper. After 6 weeks the scent was still strongly present, and it may have persisted longer had I not misplaced the blotting paper.
Castoreum blends well with Clove, Nutmeg, Cardamom and other spices, Jasmine, Oakmoss, Liquorice, Vetiver, Patchouli and Spikenard, and many types of Pine, Spruce, Fir, Birch and cedar. It seems to have a natural affinity with other aromatic citizens of our northern forests and woods. This list could easily include Wild Ginger, Ginsing, various tree and rock mosses, ferns and mushrooms found in our Canadian woods.
Synthetic Castoreum alternatives
There are man-made chemical compounds that can be used as ethical replacements for naturally sourced Castoreum and other animal scents. Should we use them instead of natural materials? I don’t believe there is one answer that suits us all. We each need to be true to our heart, our personal ideals and philosophy, examine and respond to each situation individually.
As we nurture and deepen our relationship as individuals, with Nature, the Planet and the Divine, the answers to questions of ethics become clearer and more obvious to us. This is our foremost responsibility, as individuals and as a global culture. Some questions in life have simple answers, others are complex and are not “One size fits all”. This is a case of the latter. I believe that only by engaging and embracing Nature in an intimate and meaningful way as individuals, can we be responsive to her needs, and make informed choices individually and globally.