Solid Mustache Wax Recipe

Mustache Wax cast in silicone ice cube tray

Waxing Warmly Over Mustaches

A Recipe and instructions for making your own Solid Mustache Wax

Here’s a basic recipe for a “solid” mustache wax that you can make at home.
The quantities are only approximations as each mustache requires a different consistency depending on thickness, hardness, density and length of mustache hair..

  • 1-one pound brick of natural unbleached Beeswax.

    English: Description: beeswax Deutsch: Beschre...
    English: Description: beeswax Deutsch: Beschreibung: Bienenwachs (Photo credit: Wikipedia)
  • 50 to 75 Grams Cocoa or Shea Butter
  • 100 Grams raw spruce, Pine or Balsam Fir Sap. Rough, unprocessed, directly from the tree. I find these saps not only keep the hairs together, but help “train” a mustache to a new form. (And of course smell great!).
  • 100-150 ML. Extra virgin and cold pressed Olive oil, which is full of nutrients for the hair and keeps very well.One can replace the extra virgin olive Oil with any other animal or vegetable oil. Each will add its unique qualities.
  • 5-10 ML. essential oils.

    Pitch Pine Sap , Pine Barrens N.J.
    Pitch Pine Sap , Pine Barrens N.J. (Photo credit: harmonica pete)

Make a “Bain Marie” (named after a famous female Alchemist), also called a water bath. OK Lets just call it a double boiler!

To make a double boiler take a large pot, (10-30 liters), fill it 1/3 with cold water, place it on the stove. Before you turn on the heat find some containers that you can dedicate to making mustache wax glass or metal cylindrical vessels you can afford to not use in the future for anything else. Straight walled glass Mason or preserving jars work well especially the 1/2 liter and 1 liter size. Taller than they are wide. You need to stand at least 3 containers in your double boiler. One for mixing your product, (mustache wax), one for cocoa butter, and one for sap/oil.

Double Boiler
Simple Double Boiler

If using glass jars or mason jars it’s wise to put a low rack, grate or mesh on the bottom of the pot so that the glass isn’t in direct contact with it, heat up too quickly and crack. Marbles work equally well distributing the heat. Anything that’s going to raise your jars above the bottom of the pot and allow the hottest water to circulate.

  • Fill one jar with the beeswax. Grate, chop or break it if needed so it fits through the neck of your jar.
  • Clean your collected sap, ( or saps), removing as much of the bark as you can. Put it in one of the jars then add your olive oil to the sap. (The oil acts as a solvent and will help you clean up any stickiness when you are done.)
  • In your next jar put chunks or grated Cocoa or Shea Butter
  • Put your filled jars in the cold water,

If they stand freely, support each other and don’t fall over or float away, great. If they are not stable and well supported, clamp each one to the side of the pot using a spring clamp, clothes pin or whatever works. Even if you have an “extra” jar filled with marbles, water or anything else that will keep it from floating, but supports the others, it’s better than having your jars falling over and spilling their contents in the water.

  • Add enough water to the pot so it is a little higher than the materials in the jars but at the same time not so close to the lip of the pot or the jars that it will bubble over when it reaches the boiling point.

When the water warms the contents of the jars will start melting.

  • Once the water is boiling use a stick or spoon and stir your oil/sap mix until the sap will not dissolve any further into the oil. Then filter into a jar of the same size,separating the undissolved and foreign particles. I use a conical mesh paint filter, metal mesh coffee filter or a nylon stocking in a funnel, pressing the nylon stocking. Please be careful not to burn yourself! You can compost the sap residue or return it to the earth.

It is important to bring all your ingredients to the same temperature before mixing them!

This is especially true when trying to incorporate waxes such as Cocoa Butter homogeneously.

  • Pour half your Beeswax into your oil/sap mixture and reserve the rest for adjusting later. You can also use a metal baster to transfer your liquids from one jar to another, eliminating the need to remove hot jars from the bath.
  • Add the cocoa butter, stir again and keep stirring until it blends completely in the sap/oil beeswax mix. Again, reserve some and use it to fine tune to your satisfaction.
  • Take some of your mustache wax mix and put a few drops on a plate at room temperature. Once these drops cool you’ll be able to tell if you need to add more beeswax and make it harder or add more sap or cocoa butter to make your mix softer or smoother. If for some reason you find you have used up all your oils, saps and butters and your Mustache wax is still too hard, you can heat up more Cocoa or Shea Butter, or simply heat up some olive or vegetable oil in one of your empty water-bath jars, and add it in increments till you have the consistency you want. You can play around with the proportions and with different butters, waxes and oils. Nothing is written in stone. You are making a product that is tailored to your personal needs. Remember you can always heat it up in a double boiler at a later date and make more adjustments.


A whole other world to explore, if you have the time and inclination, is the world of natural perfume. Mainly the vast selection of plant and animal derived fragrance materials such as essential oils, absolutes and tinctures. We have enriched our lives with natural fragrances for many thousands of years.The combinations that one can create are endless, making it a rewarding path to explore and express oneself.

Some traditional “masculine” essential oils

  • Woody: Juniper, Cypress, Pine, Spruce, Fir, Sandalwood, all the Cedars.
  • Balsamic; (Warm Amber like tones). Benzoin, Peru Balsam, Labdanum, Tolu Balsam, Frankincense, Myrrh,
  • Earthy: Patchouli, Spikenard,Vetiver
  • Spicy: Clove, Nutmeg, Cardamom, Bay Leaf, Black Pepper, Ginger etc.
  • Citrus: Orange, Lemon,Tangerine, Bergamot, Litsea Cubeba etc.
  • Floral: Ylang Ylang, Carnation, Neroli,

Aim for a minimum of 2% essential oils for fragrance. This means that if your end product will be 500 ML. You would aim to have at least 10 ML. of essential oils in it. Keep in mind that some essential oils can irritate the skin and the eyes, use a light hand with them. (5% max??)

Once your mustache wax has the right consistency you can take it out of the water bath. As it cools down, stir in your essential oils, adjust the fragrance to your liking while it is still in liquid form and keep in mind that the hot wax will accelerate evaporation of the volatile oils, so your mustache wax will smell much more potent than it will when it is cool.
Once your essential oils are mixed in, pour your mustache wax into containers or molds.

I like to use little silicone dome shaped ice cube trays. I find they are the perfect size for mustache wax. Enough for about one month of mustache twirling for me.They pop out of the molds easily when cool and keep their shape.

These are the basics. The rest is up to you. Feel free to improvise with different waxes, oils, saps and essential oils. Play, experiment and have fun.

If you have any questions feel free to leave a comment.
Celebrate the gender you were given this time round, be creative and explore the wonderful gifts of Nature that surround us.



  1. Hey Dan, awesome site. I’m having an issue. The resin and beeswax seemed to blend together ok in the double boiler, bit when I pour them into the final container, they seem to separate a bit. The beeswax separates to the top, and the resin to the bottom. I’m using pine resin. Thank you.

  2. Hi there, thank you so much for sharing the recipe, but I am getting a hard time in mixing the resine with the bees wax. Please help me about it.

      1. Hey,
        Thank you for the reply. I have purchased these resins from a local shop, they are in crystal form. I can send you the pictures if that explains.

      2. Hey,
        Thank you for the reply. It feels great to connect with you. Can you suggest any sap that I can get in India more specific northern India. That will be a great help.

      3. Hi Amrendra.
        India is famous for it’s Frankincense resin. I think it is called “Salai” locally. It is used for medicine and incense during ceremonies and rituals. If you need more information to find it please let me know.

      4. And can I upload photos here? Or if you can share any of your email or any thing where I can send photos.

      5. Hey Dan,
        Thank you so much for replying. That will be a great help if you can help me finding it. I asked in the market they don’t have it here

      6. Hi Amrendra. I usually have Indian Boswellia Serrata in the shop and it is easily available for purchase online. It is used a lot in Ayurveda and is a traditional incense used in local ceremonies and celebrations. Here is a list of local names.
        Common name: Indian Olibanum, Indian frankincense • Gujarati: સાલેડી saaledi, સલાઈ ગૂગળ salaai gugul • Hindi: शल्लकी shallaki, kundur, luban • Kannada: ಗುಗ್ಗುಳ ಮರ guggula mara • Malayalam: കുങ്ങില്യം kungilyam • Marathi: धुपाळी dhupali, धूपसाळी dhupasali, कुरुंद kurunda, सालफळी salaphali, साळई salai, साळी sali • Oriya: salai • Sanskrit: भीषण bhishan, गुग्गुल guggula, हस्तिनशना hastinashana, पालंक palank, पार्वती parvati, ऱ्हादिनी hradini, कुरुन्द kurunda, सल्लकी sallaki, शल्लकी shallaki, स्रुवा sruva • Tamil: குமஞ்சம் kumancam, குங்கிலியம் kunkiliyam, மரத்துவெள்ளை marattu-vellai, பறங்கிச்சாம்பிராணி paranki-c-campi-rani, வெள்ளிக்கீரை vellai-k-kirai • Telugu: గుగ్గిలము guggilamu, పరంగిసాంబ్రాణిచెట్టు parangi-sambrani-chettu, సల్లకి sallaki • Urdu: kundur, lobana 

    1. Hi Dan, I love your work.
      I live I Australia and I just have harvested some resin from a Norfolk Island Pine tree that is growing in a park near my home.
      Do you know if this tree resin will be suitable for use in your recipe?

  3. This is the greatest site ever. I just love it. Rekindled my Interest again in formulating my own products.

    Thank you for all the great information.

    Keep up the good work!


  4. Could you use an electric hot plate instead of a double boil meathod? It seems to have a more even heat and control mainly. I’ve made candles this way and was wondering if that would be acceptable.

    1. Hi Tim.
      Feel free to explore and experiment with any methods you are drawn to. I find putting a pot of water between my hotplate and materials creates a perfect thermo-regulator and heats everything evenly from all sides. Just be careful of ruining delicate materials with temperatures over 100 Centigrade and flash fires from some materials which will not give you warning with smoke.

      1. Back again. Any suggestions on how and where to harvest saps and resins from? I’m trying to get everything all natural and I’m having difficulty getting the ingredients. Particularly the cocoa/Shea butters and lanolin without other additives. Also suggestions on what will help promote growth would be fantastic. I live in Pennsylvania if that helps location wise.

      2. Hi Tim.
        If Spruce or Pine trees in your area yield sap externally you will see it accumulating on the bark. Often in public areas where the lower branches are trimmed for esthetic reasons. This can be a good opportunity to collect some sap for your projects. I also sell a selection of saps and resins in my shop here-
        You can purchase Lanolin, Shea and Cocoa butter without additives at New Directions aromatics in the States and other suppliers of soap and cosmetic DIY ingredients. Hope that was of some help.

  5. Hi! I have a unusual problem. My girlfriend is allergic to honey and even beeswax. I really need to find something to replace bees wax with. Just small amounts of wax/honey gives her really painful stomach for 12-24 h. I there anything I can use instead? ( Sorry if my spelling/language isn’t totally correct – I’m from Sweden).

    1. Hi Jonas.
      No worries with your english, it is just fine.
      I suggest experimenting with either Soy wax or candelilla wax as replacements for Beeswax. I hear some have had good results with them.
      Good luck and let me know if you need further input along the way.

  6. This sight has totally inspired me to make my own. Iv just brought everything I need but iv only purchased 100g of bees wax as 1 pound is a little excessive. How would u translate the amounts of shea butter olive oil and resin. I really want to make a super strenght version. Iv done reaserch on line and brought the most strongest wax i could find but my tash hairs still go astray! Hence I decided to mix up my own. Plus it’s way cheaper this way. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Cheers

    1. Hi Gregory. Thanks for visiting! A firmer product would require, more Beeswax, and much less oil and Butter. The Shea Butter helps reduce hair pulling. You cankeep the oil to a minimum. Basically, mix the Beeswax and Shea, test it on a room temperature surface. If it is too hard, add a little oil, test and adjust till the consistency is right. Beeswax will give all of the hold in that recipe. If you want something longer lasting you can always add resins such as Frankincense Frereana which I use in my Abyssinian Twirling Wax. The resins not only keep things in place for long periods, they help train and perm the facial hair. There is a recipe for making a moustache wax with frankincense in the navigation bar at the top of the blog. Best of luck with your product!!

  7. I actually made a recipe on my blog for mustache wax! Very similar to the one here, great recipe here too hands down!

    Dylan Lobo (Mustache Wax Reviews .com)

  8. Hi There,

    I have found your post on this to be the best around, especially your comments and help to others.

    I am trying the recipe out but am having a few issues and I think its because I have resin and not sap – are these similar at all? I read in one of your replies to someone that its the commercialized version of sap – I’m ok with that but the issue for me is getting it to melt and I’m starting to wonder if that’s because its a resin. Its been a battle to say the least and I am making small test batches (very small) -the only way I can get it to eventually kind of melt is to add my wax halfway through the oil/sap process but I’m not sure if that’s an issue either.

    I’m trying one with pine resin and one with benzoin resin. I am finding the benzoin goes gooey faster but just doesn’t want to separate after that. I tried grinding down both resins to a fine powder. Its just not happening for me. I did get the pine to sort of work but I could see the resin settling a little as it was cooling.

    Any advice would be deeply appreciated.

    Hope you can offer some advice,

    1. Hi Cynth.

      Thanks for visiting and for your kind words.
      I apologize for the late reply and hope it is still helpful. Don’t expect much from the Benzoin, it is a completely different kind of oleoresin than the conifers and Frankincense types and won’t behave the same way in the water bath. You need a different type of solvent for it.
      The Pine or Spruce oleoresins should dissolve easily. There are a couple of recipes on the blog that give precise instructions for dissolving them in vegetable oils. Here is one- and another-
      It is always wise to heat your oil and your sap in separate vessels in the water bath, then when the water is boiling and both are at the same temperature, combine them. Combining in small increments usually works even on the most stubborn oleoresins. Mixing the hot oil/oleoresin blend thoroughly till nothing further dissolves or breaks down in the oil will separate the non-soluble, (bark, twigs, needles and dirt), from the soluble.
      Depending on the type of Pine sap you are using, you will get varying quantities of undissolved material and a bit of sedimentation after filtering. If you purchased rosin, or the resin that is left over after distilling the pine essential oil from the whole oleoresin, you should not have any, or very little sedimentation after filtering. If you used fresh collected sap, you may have what is called “Callus resin” a product the tree creates when it is damaged and this product will contain a little bit of Lignan which it uses to create a scab over the injury and regrow tissue. This Lignan partially dissolves and after filtering will indeed slowly settle, I do however mix it in well and use it in all my healing oleoresin products. Even in the moustache wax I make with Spruce and Pine.
      Please check out the instructions in the above links and let me know how it works for you. I am interested in the source of your Pine “sap”. If you could share a bit about it, where you got it, I would appreciate it. I need to know the instructions and methods can work for everyone, everywhere. And if there are exceptions I will modify the instructions as needed.
      Thank you Cynth, good luck and let me know how it goes.

      1. Hi Dan, as for a late reply, considering I have never received a response from any blog I’ve ever asked a question in, yours was fast and super amazingly helpful!

        Thank you SO much for the links, they were very helpful and I have realised I was actually doing just fine. I think sometimes when gaining experience you just need someone to say -yep that’s the process! I was warned that resin isn’t for the beginner but I have had a bit of experience making waxes, balms and pomades without it so I figured the right time has to be some time around now – Everyone’s a beginner once 🙂

        Your link on the pine resin rub was so helpful. It put my mind at ease. I have found that the pine resin does actually dissolve but yes, it does take a lot of time (I wasn’t going crazy :). I expected faster melt times and was left wondering if something wasn’t right. But it seems on par with your notes in the link. It probably took me around 30-40 minutes in the oil to get it to break down. And at a slightly earlier point (maybe 15-20 mins in?) I still had a couple of sappy chunks which upon adding the wax oddly seemed to break down a little better.

        I was basically using a 1-1 ratio of oil to resin (ground) and was finding that there just wasn’t enough liquid to get this going so the 3-4 part wax seemed to help that along. I was a bit worried about the wax being on for so long (ever worried about flash points AND burning/ruining product for both wax & oils!) but the end result was quite nice. I cut the wax cake up and everything seems to be nicely combined -no clumps of settled resin or anything. The result is a nice sticky-ish hard yet malleable wax. Very happy!

        There was very minimal sediment in mine, probably due to the commercial source and product, what there was I didn’t have an issue including as it was so minuscule – my wax probably had more impurities than the resin did with sediment.

        So, to give you some details on my environment and materials which I hope helps you gather useful info:

        Environment/Location: Western Australia
        Temp: Summer weather, on the day 33 C
        Resin source: Australia (can pass on supplier if you like) – Gum Rosin (Solid type)
        Process: Double boiler, simmering water

        I want to thank you so much again for you very generous help and for generously sharing your experience. People like you move the collective knowledge along – I hope to help someone with this in return one day.

        Much appreciated,
        Cynth 🙂

  9. Thanks for this. I live in Kenya, and intend to collect some acacia tree resin this afternoon. My only worry is how to remove the resin-with-wax from my moustache when I’m finished with it, in a place where I know of no ‘moustache wax remover’ being sold. Will it just wash out with soap? (And, would I need to re-wax with this every day, or would it stay in happily for a few days?) Thanks.

    1. Hi Stephen.
      I hope my response is not too late. To the best of my knowledge, Gum Acacia is a water soluble gum with little or no oleoresin. This means it will not mix with oils and waxes without the help of an emulsifying agent, unless, you plan to use the finely powdered gum as an emulsifier in your moustache wax. In the case of the former scenario, you have undoubtedly discovered it will not replace the oleoresins in the recipes on the blog and will not mix directly with the waxes or vegetable oils.
      In the latter scenario, you would have found a recipe somewhere else with instructions on making a water/wax/oil product with the help of the gum acacia.
      If the latter is the case, warm water and soap should remove this type of wax fairly easily since the gum Acacia will break down with the warm water and release the product from your facial hair.
      That being said, I hear there are some wonderful types of Myrrh and Frankincense growing in Kenya. Any chance you could access any of these? If so I could more easily help you with a moustache wax and I would also be interested in acquiring some of your local oleoresins. To answer your other question, I usually apply my resin based moustache wax once every other day
      Again, I Apologize for the delay and hope I have been of some small help in your pursuits.

      1. Dan, thank you so much for this.  I’ll experiment, but very much believe you when you say this will end badly, teehee.  When I fail miserably, I’ll try to source some Frankincense.  Unfortunately, such trees grow in Kenya’s north east, along the Somalian border, and although I like to travel, I’m not yet brave enough (nor do I have a sufficiently bushy moustache) to enter our bandit country simply in order to wax my presently weedy lip growth.  But I’ll try to source some, and last evening spent some time looking at my book of Kenyan trees, to indentify which ones might be best for the purpose.  I’ll certainly keep trying, as a solid-setting moustache wax will be important to me here in the occasionally hot sun, where mere beeswax wilts and gives up.  To source saps/resins in kenya, I’d suggest that you contact the excellent Kenya Forestry Research Institute (KEFRI) directly; or perhaps you could try via an organisation such as the ‘Greenbelt Movement’ (the one that our Nobel-prizewinning Tree-planter, Wangari Maathai, set up).  I hope this helps.  And, thanks for your help, Stephen. 

  10. Hey! I’ve been wanting to try this recipe, and I have access to some pine resin. But I’m a little unclear on whether pine sap and resin are the same thing. Most sources call it “pine sap/resin” or something to that effect, but when I look it up, they seem to be two seperate things. Sap, resin, pitch, tar, what’s what? Can I use resin for this recipe? Is it just kinda hardened sap?

    1. Hi. Thanks for visiting.
      Pine sap as found on the tree is what I usually work with. It is the whole oleo resin.
      In commerce, the essential oils are evaporated from the fresh oleo resin or sap, what is left is the rosin, sometimes called resin or pitch. This actually works in mustache wax formulas just as well but is less fragrant. If you add essential oils to your product then the lack of scent of the rosin is not an issue. In short, sap or oleo resin collected from the Pine tree is exactly what the recipe calls for.
      Have fun!

      1. I want to harvest directly, but the pine trees where I live (down in Georgia) don’t seem to flow super well when cut. But I am moving to Washington, and it’s a freaking fantasy land for sap collection. I visited recently and took a stroll on this nature trail near where I’ll be living, and there are these giant fir trees that are just dripping with thick gobs of sap. You can literally run your finger along the side and collect a quarter ounce with every pass. For the time being, I have to work with what I can get though, and if the rosin will work, I’ll give it a shot! I’ve got some fir essential oil I can drip in there to add some of the natural fragrance back! 🙂

  11. Alright if I was making a 2oz tin size
    What portions would I use in measuring spoons,I’ve been doing like 1tsp beeswax
    Shea butter I would assume a 1/2 tsp
    Do you think a 1/2 tsp of pine sap would work,I’ve got that pure Clear/white pine sap.? Thanks

    1. Hi Matt.
      Thank you for visiting.
      Since a teaspoon holds about 5 Ml. of liquid and a 2-ounce tin holds 60 Ml. Let’s say you’ll need 12 teaspoons for your tin of moustache wax. You are correct adding a greater proportion of Beeswax than Shea butter. You can definitely add the Pine sap in the same ratio as your Shea butter. That would mean 6 teaspoons Beeswax, 3 teaspoons Shea butter and 3 teaspoons Pine sap. You may have to add a bit of Beeswax at the end depending on the age and viscosity of your sap, and the ideal consistency you are looking for in your product. It’s not an exact science so make sure to keep good notes for future and perhaps larger batches.

  12. I’ve been trying to make a beard wax because I need something that will tame the wild whiskers that go astray while keeping a soft beard and hold all around. What I experimented with most recently was 1 part shea butter to half beeswax with some essential oils for scent and probably a tbsp of base oil but I’m not exactly sure it’s the right measurements and the scent isn’t quite what I want. Any suggestions to refine what I’m doing? Any guidance or suggestions are greatly appreciated.

    1. Hi Adam and thank you for visiting my blog.
      What I suggest you incorporate in your recipe is some Lanolin to soften, nourish and protect both your facial hair and skin, and some kind of resin that will hold your hairs together better and train them to stay in the shape you want.
      In the navigation menu at the top of my main page, you will find links to recipes. A “Solid Moustache Wax Recipe will show you how to add resins to your product, and “An easy 2 part Recipe will show you proportions for Lanolin in your wax.
      Please let me know if you have any other questions.

  13. Thanks for this! I’m planning to make a batch of this … However I am wondering if I could substitute powdered pine gum rosin in place of the pine sap? If so, any recommendations on the amount? Thanks so much!

    1. Hi Thanks for visiting and you are welcome..
      I haven’t tried using powdered rosin, but if I had some, I would likely treat it in a similar way to powdered Frankincense resin. Have a look at the recipe for a moustache wax with Frankincense resin-
      It is in the drop down menu under the “solid moustache wax recipe” at the top of the page.
      To avoid clumping of the powdered rosin, I would heat it up in a separate jar in the water-bath, then add one of your warmed oils or melted waxes to it and mix it well till it is dissolved. You will likely not need to filter it as fresh sap or Frankincense. I would try adding 10% to your formula, do a cold drop test on a room temperature surface and see how the texture is when it cools. You might have to fiddle a bit with the proportions, but it should work well and add all the perming and hair holding properties of fresh saps to your product.
      Good luck!!
      Let me know if I can be of further help, and I would love to know how it works out for you..


  14. It turned out my last batch had too much beeswax, so I added more coconut oil. Then there was too much of that, so I remelted it, as you suggested, and added a little more beeswax and some more pine pitch. It ended up much better. It goes on smooth and dries with more firmness with that little pine pitch hold. Still impressed with whole process. Thanks again. I’ve got enough for months of stache grooming !

    1. Thanks for sharing your experience Alan.
      It makes this more than just another recipe. I’m also happy you took the time to re-melt your product and adjust it to your satisfaction. I find having the option of revisiting and fine tuning it can really give one a better understanding of how all the ingredients work together, and a lot more confidence for the next batch. Besides, it nice to know it’s almost impossible to ruin it if you can always go back and adjust it.
      Happy Twirling.

      1. Hi Dan
        Love this page and made a batch of wax that was really nice. I couldn’t find Pine or tree sap so I used Frankincense. It works, but I have a feeling Pine may be better. It appears that 100 grams is about a half a cup. Looking at the trees I’ve found there isn’t all that much sap to collect, almost a Herculean task. Where can I find Pine sap? I use the the wax I made from this site everyday and love it!

      2. Thank you Kenn. It’s gratifying to hear the recipe worked well for you!
        We have lots of sap here in Ontario so I collect it and sell Pine and Spruce saps in my online store. You can find a link to it in the navigation menu at the top of the website. I also carry Frankincense Frereana which is the best Frankincense for moustache waxes.
        I will have to add the store links to the recipes.
        But till then, here is a link

  15. I’m making my own mustache wax. I would like to make it black. Any thoughts as to what to add, to make it black?

    1. Hi Bob. Thank you for visiting my blog.
      If I wanted to color a moustache wax black, I would look for commercially available dyes and pigments.Non-toxic and soluble in an oil base if that is the base of your wax recipe.
      However, I would likely experiment first with finely powdered charcoal. Really finely powdered, and graphite, the kind that is used as a lubricant. I have seen it sold in small plastic tube. It is so fine it acts like a liquid. There are also some natural products traditionally used for making black ink. Two that I can think of offhand, are squid ink and inky cap mushrooms dried after they decompose to a black mess. I am sure there are other alternatives out there. With a little experimentation you will find the perfect colorant. I would love to hear how your project turned out. .
      Thanks again

    2. Forget all the weird dyes. Look for eyeshadows! Be sure the eyeshadow isn’t shimmery. It should be matte. I’d also suggest you try a dark brown. In my experience, black is always too dark for human hair. For instance, I have dark eyebrows, so I once tried a dark brown eyebrow pencil after an unfortunate tweezing incident. I looked like I just got out of prison. My dark brown brows actually needed a light brown pencil. It’s pretty strange, but I guess it has something to do with the way hair blends. So if your ‘stash is truly black, I’d say a dark brown would be appropriate. Cheap eyeshadows can be found at the drugstore and all you have to do is break them up and grind finely.

  16. I tried my attempt at your suggestions about a month ago and it worked out PERFECTLY ! I was so thrilled I couldn’t stand it ! I melted bees wax 4 parts, cocoa butter 2 parts, coconut oil 1 part, and 1 part soft but solidified pine pitch. Heated each in separate containers (bees wax took longer), then when all were melted and at an even temperature, I poured all together and stirred until melted. Then poured into a .56 ounce tin that mints came in with a sliding lid. Solidified quickly and worked great. I use it in my whole moustache, as it can get a wild hair attitude. This wax recipe does the trick. I apply it evenly and generously with an old toothbrush. Then I comb it through a few times with the big teeth end of the comb, then let it sit for awhile. Then I come back and carefully comb with the other end of the comb to style, and presto, it stays put and looks good. As I comb it now and then over many hours it continues to keep a natural look, though medium firm to the touch. By the end of the day the wax just kind of disappears from eating, combing, etc., but by then the moustache is soft and behaving ! The pitch is a very key ingredient I agree, and people can just look for ‘wounded’ pine trees for pitch, or get from you !

    I just made a new batch and filled 3 of the little tins, 8 former beeswax lip gloss tubes, and one large lip stuff tube. Once a lip gloss is done, scrape out the left overs and put a toothpick in it and press while screwing it back down. Filled with a lantern funnel, and again, worked great ! I used a little more pitch ratio this time, and bigger quantity of all ingredients. The tins and toothbrush work great in the mirror and the chap lip tubes are great for the pocket.

    One thing I have always seen with people giving up on growing a moustache is, LET IT GROW ! It takes a long time in some cases for top of lip hair to reach the corners of the mouth, for example, depending on what kind of moustache you want. A good wax will keep those shorter hairs in place as they grow and not flip up and make you give up. When I was in the Navy we could have beards and they were always after me to trim it. I said: “How can it grow if I keep trimming it ?!!” Let it grow, and it’s easier to trim and style a full moustache gradually, and per taste.

    I felt like Thomas Edison doing all this !! Thanks again !!

    1. Thank you Alan for sharing your experiences and your techniques! Your “Let it grow” approach is perfect advice to all those who are hesitant to take the leap from tame, trimmed and short, to eloquent masculine self expression. There are too many men who never fully celebrate their moustaches for exactly this reason.
      I will have to reference your comment in a future moustache post.

  17. I have a question for you, I’m going to use the recipe to make a solid wax with some Frankincense And Myrrh added. I use to buy a solid from a company that I think closed up shop 🙁 After heating, would I be avle to pour it in a container like stick deodersnts come in so it can be dispensed that way? I thought it may be handy to keep that way

    1. Hi Mark. It should work fine. The only possible problem I can foresee is if it sticks to the tube and doesn’t come out easily. I would try it first. It often works fine. If you do get some sticking you could adjust your recipe a bit and add a little carnauba or more beeswax to firm it up, or spray/wipe a bit of silicone lubricant in the sleeve. Good luck! Let me know how it goes.

  18. Hello Dan! I’m excited to try this recipe out as closely as I can, though one thing I was curious about is how well this holds upundee humid conditions, because I live in Southern Ontario, Canada, and our humidity is simply ridiculous, and none of thr various waxes I’ve tried hold up for more than an hour or so, and I’ve tried many~ Any recommendations?

    1. Hi Erich:
      Yes, Living in Hamilton, I know exactly what you mean!
      I usually end up making a softer wax for the winter and a harder one for summer.
      Here are some ways this is done.
      – Reduce the oil/ sap mix called for in the recipe. Go ahead, stir and filter your sap/oil mix, but don’t add it all to your mustache wax. Try adding only 1/4 of it, and if your wax is too hard at the “drop test” point, then add more in small increments till you get the right consistency.
      – Reduce the quantity of softer ingredients such as the Cocoa or Shea Butters. They both melt at lower temperatures and reduce the melting point of your finished product.
      Both these adjustments will give you a higher ratio of Beeswax in your product which may take a little more warming between the fingers to apply, but will give you a firmer and more heat tolerant product.
      – In addition to reserving some of the softer ingredients in the recipe, you can experiment with adding a small quantity of a harder or more brittle wax to the mix. (Do this in very small increments, it is always best to add too little and leave room to add a little more, than to add too much and have to recreate the original ratio of ingredients). If you try this, then in the style of the recipe, put the new wax in its own jar in your water-bath.
      It is fairly easy to get candlemaking waxes at places like Michaels or Currys, (candles need to keep their shape in environments of high temperature and humidity). Soy wax and paraffin wax are both used to make candles. You could experiment with either of these in your mix. Both will add a degree of brittleness and firmness to your mustache wax.
      Be aware they may add their own scents to your mustache wax, and too much of either may change the consistency of your mustache wax to something drier or more powdery.
      I have added Carnauba wax in the past for durability in a summer wax, but it is a little trickier to incorporate smoothly in the recipe.
      This recipe was designed to leave room for adjustments based on personal preferences. So any way you look at it, you will have to do a little experimenting.
      Remember to keep notes of your adjustments and experiments, of what works for you. This may be the first in a long series of Mustache waxes that will improve and evolve yearly. It will save you a lot of time in the future having an accurate record of exactly what worked for you and what didn’t.
      Enjoy creating the perfect grooming wax for your mustache Erich, and please let me know if I can be of assistance along the way.
      All the best

      1. Hello again, Dan!

        I’m in the midst of working on my wax right now, grabbing the necessary ingredients and whatnot; but I have a couple more questions!
        I’ve just bought my beeswax, and some essential oils, but I’m having an extremely difficult time getting my hands on some sap. I understand that it’s not a necessary part of the equation, however, durability and humidity resistance is totally crucial for me, so I want to be as thorough as possible. Do you have any suggestions for where I might acquire some sap? Also, do you think it’d be okay to change up the oil with something else? I’ve just recently come in possession of some Palm oil, hemp oil, and a few others and I was curious to know if that would significantly change the final product?
        Thanks again for all your help!

        ~ Erich

      2. Hi Erich.
        I am happy to hear your mustache wax project is coming together!
        Last questions first, I assume the oils you would like to try, palm oil and hemp oil would work just fine in the formula instead of the olive oil. I would check to see what their projected shelf life is, since oils will go rancid after a period of time. Though you won’t be consuming them, if they do spoil they may create a bad odor to your grooming wax. Being perched under your nose this could be unpleasant :-). To avoid this possibility, I would add 1 capsule, (400 I. U. Or international units), of vitamin E to each 200 milliliters of these oils to stabilize them. It is a remarkable preservative for fats, and readily available at any pharmacy.
        As far as the sap goes, I have a nice filtered Spruce sap/oil at a ratio of 1 part sap to one part olive oil in the shop though not yet posted in the online store. This may not suit your purpose since it already contains olive oil and may not leave you much room for the hemp seed and palm kernel oils. Remember, you will have to keep your oil ratio low if you want to achieve a firmer wax that will last through the heat and humidity of Southern Ontario summers.
        I also have some fresh unprocessed Spruce sap, which may be better for what you are trying to do. . I am happy to ship you either if you like.
        If you started with raw sap you could follow the original recipe and simply replace the olive oil with hemp or palm oils. Perhaps if you do try them you could let me know how they worked for you?
        Since mentioning Carnauba wax a while back, I have done some testing. If it is thoroughly heated to the same temperature as your other Materials, a little bit of Carnauba wax will raise the melting point of the mustache wax and add a stiffness which may be what your summer wax needs. A small quantity will add these traits, too much will make it powdery or too hard to apply. It definitely increases the “holding” power. I have Carnauba wax in stock, let me know if you would like to try some. It does not suit all mustaches, but it may be what your blend needs. If you are interested, let me know and I will get you prices on the saps and the Carnauba.
        Good luck Erich and of course let me know if I can be of help in any way.

      3. Hello again, Dan!

        I’ve toyed around with the recipe I’m using, as I’ve not been able to find pine sap anywhere; at least not easily. I wasn’t able to find the raw sap on your store, I assumed it hadn’t been added yet.
        More recently, I’ve been looking into alternatives for pine sap, and the closest I’ve been able to find is various gums! Gum arabic, Guar Gum, and Xanthan Gum; the only one I’ve actually been able to find is xanthan gum, and I’m not sure if it’s going to add the tack that I’m looking for! I just wanted to get your thoughts on those gums, and whether I would be able to get some of that unprocessed spruce sap from you!

        Thanks again!

        – Erich

      4. Hi Erich,
        No , I haven’t posted saps in the store yet! Sorry.
        The gums you mentioned are all true gums, not resins, and are all water-soluble, so would not work for this mustache wax recipe.
        However, your comment is very timely and a little synchronistic since I just harvested the seasons first Spruce sap this afternoon!
        It is very fragrant, very fresh and very sticky. I can send you 120 grams, 4 Ounces for $8.00. If you go to the apothecary shop and place an order for 2 ounces of one of the Frankincense resins, I will ship the Spruce sap out to you the same day.
        Also, if you find the Spruce sap is not enough, I have found that up to 10% Carnauba wax will hold the longest beard through the wildest winds.

  19. Thank you for a natural wax recipe made with really detailed instructions. Approx. how much final product do you get from this recipe?

    1. Hi Justine; Thanks for your interest and your kind words. An estimate of how much this recipe will give you has to be general. There is a lot of room for personal preference, mistakes and corrections. Different facial hair requires different products. There is not really a “one size fits all” solution. For this reason the recipe calls for more beeswax than needed, and is intended as a place to explore and experiment.
      In general, if one adhered to the recipe precisely, and chose to create a medium weight mustache wax, for a medium weight mustache, only about half the beeswax would get used so the final product should be approximately 450 grams.
      I hope that answers your question.

      1. Thank you very much! I just ordered the beeswax and found a very good tree oozing sap.

      2. That’s great Justine!! I find a Ziplock bag, a good steel knife and some olive oil for cleanup are all I usually need to collect the sap.
        If the sap is oozing not from a cut in the tree, but from a hole that is bored into it, I will stick a piece of wire all the way down the hole as it is usually home to a borer that is destroying our conifers. A bit of a favour to the tree while we are benefiting from its gifts.
        Good luck and let me know if I can help in any way.

      3. Any idea what the shelf life is like? If I am unable to keep it in the fridge?

      4. Justine.. Sorry for the delay! My first response to your question got eaten up somewhere online!
        To answer your excellent question. No need to refrigerate your mustache wax. As long as it is kept in a relatively cool and dark place it will last for years if not decades. I have a 7 year old batch that looks and acts the same as the day it was made.
        I do suggest you keep your finished product in an airtight container, moisture in the air may create a bit of a dull sheen on it over time. If you are pouring your hot mustache wax into resealable tins, then they will keep indefinitely. If you are pouring your wax into smaller molds like ice cube trays, then I suggest after you pop them out of their molds, put them in a glass jar that you can seal, like a mason jar. If you do keep it in a clear jar, then make sure it is kept out of direct sunlight. The sun may heat things up and melt them, and the UV rays may also create a hoary surface coating. Something like chocolate that has been frozen or overheated. It won’t spoil it, but won’t look very nice.
        Thank you for your interest and your questions!

    1. Kevin. My apologies for the delay!
      I have moved to a new site, our conversation is here on the old one!
      I have checked, i do not have raw sap at the moment, but What I do have is purified spruce and balsam Fir sap mix that is already combined with olive oil. What this means is that you can skip the whole step in my recipe of creating a “sap oil” for your mustache wax, and simply combine the beeswax, cocoa or Shea butter with the sap oil mix.
      This would cut out a couple of steps for you and you would not have to work with the raw saps at all. It is the same price as the filtered sap and is basically 2/3 sap and 1/3 olive oil.
      The new website is and I will post the sap/oil mix for sale on the site tomorrow if I can. Either way please contact me at the new site and not the old.

  20. id love to know how much a jar of maybe some of the pine sap would be. weve got california pines all around where i live but im not exactly sure how one would havest sap so i assume its probably better for me to purchase it.

    1. I sell the Pine sap filtered at $6.00 for 1oz., (30 ml.) or 4 ounces for $20.00.
      Spruce sap is the same price and Balsam Fir is $10.00 per oz. and $30.00 for 4 ounces.

  21. do you buy you pine pitch or do you harvest it yourself? ive been trying to find a place to buy sap or products like it but ive found not too much luck. how good is the holding power?

    1. Hi Kevin;
      Thank you for your interest in my recipe.
      I harvest sap locally since we have an abundance of conifers in southern Ontario.
      I find the saps add a little more flexibility to the form of a mustache, allowing it to “bounce back” while keeping its shape. They seem to aid a mustache in achieving and holding a new form even when the wax is gone. I can’t say I have seen any scientific research or proof of this function, but It has been my experience that saps act like perming agents, helping one put a curl where desired rather than where ones facial hair or genetic predisposition would like one to be. As far as how long this recipe would hold, it is completely dependent on the weight, length and thickness of your facial hair. That being said, I find adding sap to my wax does increase its hold and the length of time it stays in my mustache.
      If you cannot find or purchase saps in your area, let me know. I am slowly getting the stock i sell in my physical store online in my web store. It is taking much longer than anticipated, but I do produce and sell raw materials for natural perfume, grooming and herbal preparations. Let me know what you need and if I have it in stock I can get you a price for it. If you are uncertain what you might need or what quantity, I would be happy to answer your questions.

  22. Just out of coriousity, have you ever used soy wax instead of beeswax? Is it interchangeable?

    1. Hi.
      No, I have never used Soy wax, but as far as i know, it is similar in many ways to Beeswax. You might have to adjust the other components in your mustache wax to compensate for the differences, (it may behave differently when heated or after it is mixed and cooled with the other ingredients). But in general, I don’t see any reason you could not use it instead of Bees wax.
      If you do try Soy wax as a base, I would love to hear how it worked for you and would be happy to add your experience to the mustache Wax recipe and post.
      Good luck and thanks for your interest!

  23. This recipe will be my first attempt at homemade moustache wax, but I am very excited as it seems to cover all the important bases of a quality wax. I am in south Alabama so the fir sap is going to be hard to come by. Do you believe Southern Pine or Cedar would serve the purpose in this recipe? Once again, great article, and I will report back with my findings. Thanks.

    1. Hi Jason; Yes, most definitely! I often use Pine sap, Spruce or Fir, or a mix of them all. They all work equally well for the mustache wax, with only slight variations in fragrance and medicinal qualities which are not a priority here.. I don’t know if you will find much from a Cedar. Ours yield no sap even when damaged, but let me know if yours do. There is one adjustment I was going to make to that recipe, (since I tend to fuss like a mother hen worrying that it won’t fail readers in some way), and I am going to change it today after I respond to your comment. Please start with a 1 pound block of bees wax.(and not a half pound as per the original recipe). It really is the foundation and the main ingredient, so it is best to have extra, even if there is some left over after your final adjustments. You could basically make a decent mustache wax from Bees wax and olive oil alone, that’s how important it is. Thanks for your kind words, good luck, and please let me know how it turns out for you, Also, if you have any other questions please don’t hesitate to let me know here.

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